Attention to detail is by far the most important aspect of any product, including a custom made suit. Detail is not as much the features of the suit but rather the handwork and time involved in producing the custom fit. Even a small aspect such as the buttonholes can be revealing in the quality level of a well-made suit.
When examining the custom tailored suit at an initial glance, the feel of the cloth is very important. The softer the feel, the better the suit. It is a simple rule and easiest way to get a sense of the quality right away. A soft touch most likely reveals that a fine fabric and quality manufacturing went into producing the custom suit. The canvas of the suit should also be hand stitched rather than fused or glued allowing the custom suit to shape to the body.
Machines do rule the manufacturing world these days but when evaluating a custom tailored suit, a fine-quality company will leave some parts to proper handwork. The collar for example, should be attached by hand to the jacket. The concept of a handmade buttonhole has been a long-standing symbol of a custom suit. The signs of a handmade buttonhole in a custom tailored suit are whether it is smooth on the outside and rough on the inside. Hand stitching should also be used when setting the edge of the lapel and setting the sleeves to the jacket body to account for a proper fit.
The principle rule in evaluating the material of a custom tailored suit is the cloth absolutely must be made from natural fibers. Synthetic fibers will not only incur more maintenance but are obvious is retaining their own shape rather than the wearer. Cotton, silk, flannel, worsted, gabardine all constitute natural fibers and should not be blended with synthetics. The suit should also have a soft and neat lining in the coat to ensure durability and flexibility of the suit.
Clothes worn make some of the strongest impressions during a lifetime and the quality should live up to the calling. A well-made suit creates a statement and inspires confidence, so inspect and invest wisely.